Iowa is not known for its cuisine. We have renowned sweet corn, pork fritters, and the occasional pie. As much as I love comfort food, I do crave a little something else once in a while.
Luckily, Iowa City has an above-average food scene.
The dinner date or getting your parents to take you somewhere fancy industrial complex is alive and well here. But it breaks my heart when people decide that the best food is downtown.
Basta, St. Burch’s, and Pullman’s are nice places, but let’s be honest, they are a little played out. If you expand your restaurant radius to a 15-minute drive, the possibilities are endless. I will present three reasons why.
We’ll begin with Ramen Belly. Located in the homey peninsula neighbourhood, they serve your average Japanese-inspired fare, but the food is anything but average.
Their Tonkatsu ramen broth is made in-house, slow-cooked, rich, and delicious. In a world of overstimulating ramen, they strike a balance with delicious but not overwhelming broth. I could taste the noodles, the bamboo shoots, and the bean sprouts, all together.
The Karaage fried chicken starter is a must-order. It is light and crispy, with a batter made of glass, served with house honey Gochujang sauce that is just the right amount of spicy. My perfect summer afternoon is riding the three-mile bike trail to get there, getting a can of sake and whatever looks fun on the concise menu, and eating in the outside seating.
Then there’s Taqueria El Paso. A good friend of mine showed me this place. I passed by it a few times, but it didn’t really look like a restaurant, but I was mistaken. It’s a Hispanic grocery store that cooks food well. They have five tables with bars alongside the windows. It is intimate and welcoming, as the staff knows all the regulars. The food is excellent in my opinion, but I don’t pretend to understand good Mexican food. It’s hidden knowledge, not yet codified in recipe books.
Whatever makes it good, El Paso has got it. Their lengua is cooked just right – juicy, gelatinous even. They don’t make their airy bread soggy. You can taste every bite of that torta, from the crisp lettuce to the sweet mayo. Their rice is al dente, not mushy as it often happens, and it is smoky, herby, and fresh.
The price to portion ratio? Outrageous in the best way possible. Their carnitas are also a must, packaged in any way that is not dry, not soggy, but all the best parts of roast pork in every little strand.
Finally, I recommend Sugapeach Chicken and Fish Fry. Let’s be honest, Iowa has good fried fish. Even with this high bar, Sugapeach stands out. Focusing on fin and beak soul food, they do just that, and they do it well.
The catfish is not overly fishy; it tastes fresh and meaty. It’s crispy, the batter holds in every bite, it does not disintegrate, and it has a little spice to keep things interesting. Focusing on the veggies in a fried fish place might be odd, but the fried okra and collard greens were incredible.
I do prefer sauteed okra, but if I go there a couple more times, I might change my mind. The okra is juicy, crispy, bouncy, and snappy. It tastes like okra; it does not need an overpowering batter to hide itself.
The collard greens, on the other hand, are soft. It is a perfect balance to the okra. I could taste the greenery and the hint of bacon mixed with it. It still holds the nice bitterness of leafy greens, but it’s mixed with the sweetness of vinegar, a sweetness that is accentuated with slow cooking.
There is always soft banter around the tables, mixed with Southern politeness. The staff is friendly and fun, eager to please.
This is just the tip of the iceberg. There are tons and tons of fun places to eat outside downtown, and one should not look down on them just because they are hidden away in some corner or strip mall. Frankly, they have to work much harder to convince customers to drive to them. I promise you, their hard work pays off. Your taste buds and bellies will thank them for their service.